DAY 39: Lions and Tigers and Bears...

Nine-foot hoops make me feel good about myself. I got up early and went on a long run, in the warm rain along the Arno and as I crossed over and up to Michelangelo's Gardens, I came across staggered tennis courts that intrigued me. I zigzagged up stairs to find a track with a basketball court in the middle! I got a warm, buttery feeling inside... usually I get an upchuck reflex when I'm on a track or basketball court after 6 years of college/pro conditioning hell, but it made me feel at home for some reason. I grabbed a ball and shot some hoops in the rain while "Lloyd and Frank" watched me swish 3 pointers... like I said, it was a 9-foot hoop (vs. 10'), so I looked like Lisa Leslie to them. Genetics are a blast when you are blessed with a small bladder- I am renowned for having to pee halfway through a run… I asked “Marg,” a tubby little woman under the stairs, “tapping” a punching bag, where the toilets were. Zero English and a lot of doe-eyes and fierce pointing later, I ran off, confused and on a mission, UNTIL…campgrounds! Why didn’t I think of that? Actually, why would I think of that? Down to a locked gate and back up to another locked gate and over to a locked gate and finally over to an open gate were the restrooms that NO ONE has cleaned since last summer stood. I love Montana for the fact that you can pop a squat just about anywhere… Italy, not so much. Unless it’s 4 a.m. in Venice during Carnivale and the corner scaffolding resembles a loo…

“The Harv” had 3 surprises for us today… first stop: Santa Felicita where, according to him, “the best painting ever to be painted” lived… a glorious Mannerism (meaning, the more puzzling and nonsensical, the better) of Mary saying good-bye to her son as prophets carry him away. I loved it strictly for Pontormo E. Rosso’s use of electric pinks and blues- unfathomable palette displays for that time. With tearful expressions of men floating like clouds, carrying the weight of their hero's demise, Rosso’s unruly asymmetry manages to balance on one man’s big toe… quite moving.

Surprise #2 was the Santo Spirito Church, held up by huge grey pillars with intimate windows allowing just enough sunshine in to create a warm ambiance… light and airy unlike many Gothic churches. In front of the church was a great little market with antique brass hardware tents, fromage, fruit, veggies and homemade organic wine (no sulfites) that we had to try… 1.5 liters for 7 Euros! And the final surprise for the day was the Science Museum with every animal that has ever breathed in air on this planet, stuffed and shoved into an ancient glass cage. Made me sad seeing a bunch of dead animals, peering out at me through their glass eyes… except for the wicked spider monkey with devil fangs- he can stay in there. Hungry hippo needed some Vaseline Intensive Care- dry, cracked skin… he’s seen better days. There were several rooms full of wax anatomy diagrams of goats, cats, chickens, humans… I started to get a weak stomach, so I stuck with the animals that had cotton balls for organs. My favorites were the bootiful buttaflies and beetles, iridescent hummingbirds and peacocks (of course, I’m obsessed with them), and the platypus (so funny and cute). I started having convulsions upon entering the snake room, covered my eyes and blindly RAN through (they should catch every slithering sucker and throw them all into a big bonfire… after Jimmy Choo makes me snake skin ballet flats in every color…). I was very touched and inspired by Mother Nature’s artistic children… some of the bird’s nests were amazing- precise knots made out of specific grass or string displaying color patterns and intricacy that only a little beak could perfect. I love seeing works of art done by animals because they are simply building a home or teaching their children, without realizing that what they’re doing is beautiful and moving.

A few of us walked to “Koma Sushi Bar” for lunch and warmed up with miso and our choice of rolls from the conveyer belt on the bar. Cool space with a bulbous gold ceiling, purple lights and Frank Sinatra playing in the background… I appreciate the diversion of cultures I’ve experienced so far. Italian lessons followed our MSG and mercury intake that made us all zombies- brain overload! Motivation is trying when rain pours down, but a few of us managed to wander through the leather market, grab some groceries (peanut butter, celery and carrots for me) and finally, what we were craving all day: a kabob from Istanbul. Warm tortilla with lettuce, tomatoes, cilantro onions, hot sauce, taziki and shaved chicken… Holy yum- huge wrap for 5 Euros. I heart tasty cheap food. Though it was a Friday night, we hung out at the hotel, with our sketchbooks, music and wine and drew the night away…

Day trip to Sienna tomorrow… I hope everyone is watching the Olympics for me! Ciao!