DAY 66: Whistle while you work

Things in Cinque Terre move a little bit slower than the rest of the world, including the animals. Surprisingly today, these animals were up early ready to take on the steep trails that zigzag along cliffs, through backyard gardens and vineyards. We hiked up old variations of nature-made and man-made steps to the small village Volastra where the fragrance of fresh flowers and olives intensified with elevation. Locals were enjoying the peacefulness of the shoulder season before their streets turn into a Mardi Gras of tourists. Men whistled while they mended stick fences and slapped grout onto their home’s foundation cracks, a chore that surely occurs every spring. The women dug in their gardens barehanded, talking to the neighbors that have probably shared a hot water heater for over 30 years… all of which were completely aloof to the 3 American girls tromping in between their houses. Our questionable fitness levels were quickly answered with heavy breaths and cramping hamstrings… let’s just say this particular trail is not for the faint hearted… or those who worry about chipping their nail polish.

Approximately 3 hours and 2.5 miles later (don’t do the math), we made our way down to Corneglia for some cappuccinos and lunch… after exploring the little town and asking a Minnesotan wearing a Red Lodge, Montana sweatshirt to take our photo, we found Il Pirun and took a load off in a booth upstairs. “Folco Orselli,” the Italian Louie Armstrong, serenaded us while we enjoyed caprese salads and lots of aqua. We decided to celebrate our last day of carbs with pasta dishes… I went with a salmon and tomato fettuccini- very good. We contently sat, taking in the the quaint little resto and its Italian patrons that slowly filtered in for siesta… fortunately we had another few miles to work off our hefty lunches before we reached Vernazza. Arguably the most “happenin’” town of the five, many stores were open for business, probably because the owners thrive on lethargic afternoons to socialize… gathering halfway between one another’s stores to smoke multiple cigarettes and comment on passerby’s. Forlornly, I am drawn to gelato shops like a moth to a flame and of course we had to counterbalance our output with input… fresh banana and coconut for this girl… perhaps the best yet. Oh happy day…

The path from Vernazza to Monterosso was closed due to landslidage, so we took the train to check out the final stretch of C-T… this larger and equally “bustling” town provided great homemade spreads, spirits and famous foccacia. We walked along the beach to check out the local hens that sit on benches in their mangy fur coats, whispering amongst themselves and scowl at non-locals. We picked up some anchovy tapenade and pesto gift items before hitting up the grocery store for dinner items including: speck, gorgonzola, pecorino, apples, biscotti, foccacia and vino. Back on the train to Ostello Cinque Terre to shower and chillax with a fresh buffet spread, red wine and immeasurably fabulous company. To keep things interesting, we finished two bottles of wine and decided to play beauty parlor… Rabbit highlighted the reverse skunk stripe down my noggin… my hair cut (or lack there of) is currently inspired by both Harry and Lloyd from Dumb & Dumber.  Animal looked on with snide eyes and blurred comments- oh so helpful. Suffice to say if the whole “saving lives” gig doesn’t work out, Rab has a profitable hairdressing future ahead of her! Today was dreamy and rich… thrilled to share it with two special gals! Back on the road tomorrow (sniffle), ciao ciao ciao…